Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

This day we finally got a break from the long, grueling 30 KM days (only 21 KM today). We woke up and got on the trail after not eating much for breakfast. It had rained that night and was raining more as we began our walk. After leaving Nájera, we found a KM marker that counted down to Santiago. We thought it was interesting and exciting, but as we finished our next KM, we found another marker to Santiago. These markers were at EACH KM we passed during the day. This countdown made the day go by so slowly. 

Because it had rained, the red clay dirt had become red clay mud. This type of dirt is soft when its dry, but when it gets wet, it sticks to everything. Soon our boots were covered in the stuff and it felt like we had 20 pound bricks on each foot. 

Having the added weight made me very tired very quickly. We walked the remaining kilometers eager to get to our next stop, ready for a nap. 

Eventually we made it to Santo Domingo, a quaint little town with a strange obsession with chickens. The story behind the obsession is quite odd. 

A German family was walking along The Way when they stopped in the town. The innkeepers daughter fancied the son, but he refused her advances. To get back at him, she hid a silver goblet in his pack. He was arrested and hanged. The parents went on to Santiago to complete their walk. (Really? They left him without a second thought?!) On the way back home they found their son still hanging in the gallows.  Miraculously, he was alive and told his parents to go to the mayor and get him pardoned since he had done nothing wrong. They went to the mayor's house and inturupped his dinner. They begged that their son be let go and the mayor said no, because he was as dead as the rooster and hen upon his plate. At that moment, the birds grew feathers, hopped up, and crowed. With that "miracle" the boy was cut down and released. 

Weird. 

And they keep a rooster and hen in their church. 

We found our albergue for the night and because we had arrived in town so early, we had to wait in a line of pilgrims outside (in the rain). When we finally got to go inside, they ushered us in in groups of 3. Abe and I were split up and I was terrified that we would end up in seperate rooms. We were brought into a series of rooms, hurried along by a tiny man. After walking so far, I was in no mood to hurry anywhere and when he wanted me to go quicker, I slowed down even more. Eventually they figured out Abe and I were together and we were assigned bunk beds that were in the same room (thank goodness).

We had a huge lunch because we hadn't eaten much all day. After lunch we fell asleep for 2 hours and then woke up and explored the city. 

We stayed in an albergue that also had a rooster and hen. They woke us up this morning (May 28) bright and early, crowing and making noise. Quite the memorable experience. 

Buen Camino!