Second to Last Day!

Today we walked from Ribadiso to Arca (a 23 KM walk total). 

In the albergue this morning, we were met with a rude awakening from the newbies. They woke up at 5, rustled in their bags and talked loudly, and then turned on the lights promptly at 6 (all of these are faux pas to us seasoned Pilgrims). We had breakfast with E, B and J and then began walking up the hill that lead to the next city. The weather was foggy and overcast for much of the day, until the sun burned the fog away. 

We walked past a farm today where a pig and a dog were standing by the gate looking for loves. Yes, a pig. We went up to them and the pig began wagging his tail just like the dog. Hilarious. 

Todays shorter walk was full of wonderful Galician scenery! 

This part of the country is seriously georgeous and I could totally live here...if I knew more Spanish and all of my friends could come too. 

The most exciting part about today was passing the 25 KM mark. Yes, you read that correctly, less than 25 KM stands between us and Santiago! 

I was so excited that I practically ran/danced all the way into Arca (ok, I really was dancing because I was listening to my music). 

J and E made it to this marker just as we were getting there. It became a mini celebration of our giant, but not yet finished, adventure! 

We are now in our nice, calming (literally, they have spa music) albergue and we only have 20 KM to do tomorow. We are going to wake up extra early and attempt to make the Pilgrim mass at 12 (cross your fingers that they swing the giant incense burner, I'll take a video if they do!). We had a super filling supper and are going to bed with smiles on our faces. Our journey is almost complete. 

Buen Camino, from a very excited Pilgrim!! 

Palas de Rei to Ribadiso

Yesterday, we planned on walking the (almost) 27 KM to Ribadiso. After being spoiled with several shorter distance days, two 27 KM days in a row was really taking its toll on our bodies. We woke up and had a wonderful breakfast at the same bakery where my birthday cakes had come from. The people there were so nice and it was an awesome (and inexpensive) breakfast! 

We then set off, walking over land that looked pretty much the same as the days before. It alternated between lush forest and farmland. 

We pushed ourselves further than usual between second breakfast and lunch and by the time it was time to eat, I was totally starved. I had fried eggs, bacon, sausage, salad and french fries...and a bite or two of cake. My metabolism is out of control fast here, and I have to constantly eat to keep ahead of feeling hungry (or hangry as my friends back home would know me, hungry+angry). 

By the time we were back on the trail, my back had begun to hurt so bad that taking deep breaths made it worse, so my amazing boyfriend took my pack and carried it to give me a break. 

I felt instantly free as I walked along the path with no extra weight dragging me down. No wonder those pilgrims who ship ahead their bags walk so fast! I felt like I could fly! 

We walked past the 50 KM marker today. Seeing numbers this low is incredible and invigorating (especially sfter seeing 790 KM on the second day)! 

After about 1.5 KM i took back my pack and we walked the rest of the way to Ribadiso.

After along, hard day, we made it. The albergue we stayed in is one of the oldest still in existence and  it is all stone and is set right up on the riverbank. Needless to say, it had no wifi (which is why this post is late) but the atmosphere was a lot of fun! 

E, B and J were there and B even got brave enough to put his feet in the freezing cold water! 

The showers and bathrooms were in another building which made late night bathroom trips interesting,  but all in all, the day was a success and we were that much closer to our end goal! 

Buen Camino! 

Abe's Pro Tips: Pilgrim Fashion

No matter whether or not we have on our backpacks, or are carrying our trusty walking sticks, the locals always seem to pick-up on the fact that we're pilgrims. Once we decided that it couldn't be our terrible Spanish or our inability to get around the city that was giving us away there was only one answer left; it was the pilgrim's unique sense of fashion that set off the locals perigrino radar. Here are the highlights from our 2013 collection.

Cold-weather gear:

For those days in late May when it's literally freezing outside.

On days like this your backpack should be extra-light because you will be wearing every piece of clothing you have: t-shirt, long-sleeve, jacket, rain-coat, hat, pants, rain-pants (not pictured). Just put it all on.

Warm-weather gear:

If you start when we did, you will likely start off everyday with some version of the cold weather gear on because it's just cold in the mornings. However, there are plenty of options once the sun starts to come out.

Remember how cool zip-off pants were in the late 90's (ok maybe they weren't so cool, but I was 10 and they were cool to me), well they're back, at least on the camino. So when you start to feel a little warm, go ahead and zip those pants into shorts. Let those high socks breath.

If its not quit warm enough for shorts but pants are a little too restricting, the ladies have a lovely in between option.

City wear:

Once you're done walking for the day, and after the obligitory siesta, you may want to go explore the city. But not in those ragity old walking clothes. Never fear we have colorful, light-wieght, nylon dresses for the women (no great pic of it).

And collared golf shirts for boys (don't be afraid to wrap you jacket around your waist if you think it may be cold but want your hands free).

Head-gear:

While the sun is a welcome guest on the camino, too much can badly burn you face and neck. If only there was a way to shade those areas and still enjoy the sun. Don't worry these broad rimmed hats do the trick.

Foot wear:

Last but not least we come to the feet, the most abused body part on the camino. Of course there are trail shoes, but the most telling perigrino footwear is the emphatic use of the chaco and socks combination.

If thats not fashionable I don't know what is.

Needless to say pilgrim fashion can easily be summed up as: Ain't nobody got time for that.

But then again we could walk cross Spain looking like this.

Camino Birthday

Yesterday was my 25th birthday.

So. Old. 

We woke up in Portomarín and planned on doing 27 KM for the day (after hills were factored in). Like any other day we walked until second breakfast where I got a Tarta de Santiago to celebrate. 

We continued walking until lunchtime and sat down to eat our sandwiches at a bar with a sweet (but loud) kitty. While eating, E, B and J found their way to our restaurant and surprised me with a piece of cake (I blew out a match) and a second singing of "Happy Birthday" (they had also sung to me before we left Portomarín). 

The rest of the day was uphill all the way until Palas de Rei, our stopping point for the day. 

I was feeling very exhausted and my left shoulder was aching by the time we got there, so after getting a shower Abe let me nap while he washed our clothes. Over the past few weeks, my shoulder has been really hurting (maybe due to a pinched nerve) and it seems the pain is getting worse. It feels like sharp, stabbing pain under my shoulder blade followed by numbness and pain down my left arm. The pain usually starts after I've adjusted my pack in some way and it sticks around for several minutes at a time. Its not fun. 

After waking up, we had second lunch complete with birthday sangria. We then relaxed and explored the town briefly. It had been lovely weather all day and after our walk through town it started raining and pouring. We stayed inside until supper, not wanting to get soaked. We had hoped to find a nicer restaurant where I could enjoy a good birthday dinner, however we had no such luck. 

We had our supper and when dessert came we were even more disappointed. They claimed to have our favorite dessert (natillas) but when they brought it out, it was FAKE natillas. Not even homemade. I was pretty sad so after we got back to the albergue, Abe went in search if a bakery. He found one and picked up some tiny delicious cakes! He had officially saved the day. 

We went back up to our room and an Irish Pilgrim presented me with a chocolate bar as a birthday gift. We had just met her that day and she was so kind that she went to the grocery and picked it up just for me. I cant get enough of the other Pilgrims on this walk. They are amazing. 

Total, I think I was sung 'Happy Birthday' about 8 times. Which is probably a record. Being on the Camino is a very interesting way to start my 25th year of life, but it'll be one I'll always remember. 

Buen Camino! 

 

Triacastela to Sarria and Sarria to Portomarín

Yesterday we made the short walk from Triacastela to Sarria (only 18 KM). We had previously decided to take the shorter route and not see the monastery in Samos since we are both feeling pretty exhausted. The day before everyone had been up and out of bed super early, today, Abe and I were the first ones up (at 6) and everyone was still pretty much asleep when we left. Even if we had tried, I don't think Abe or I could have slept past 6:30...my internal alarm now goes off each morning at 5:45. 

It was another gorgeous walk through the Galician countryside (even though it was kind of chilly). We got to spend some time walking up a hill with E and J (B had gone the long route). Eventually we left them, since we walk at a faster clip. 

Really, this day wasn't anything special except for the fact that we saw this giant slug and that we reached the city where more people would be joining us. Thankfully, we arrived on a Tuesday and not many people start their weeks vacation on a Tuesday. If it had been a weekend, I'm sure the place would have been crawling with new Pilgrims. There are a few new faces on the trail, but not an enormous amount. Its funny because the newbies are easy to spot. They have shoes that are too clean and are most likely to be wearing gym shorts and sweatsuits. In a few days I'm sure we will see them limping down the trail, just like we did after 3 days of walking. 

When we were about done for the day, we discovered that we'd have to walk up this gigantic flight of stairs. Not the best way to end a day. 

Our newest food obsession is Tarta de Santiago. It is an almond cake and its delicious. 

After arriving at our albergue, I started to feel pretty sick. We didn't eat as much as usual on this day and, because my camelback broke, I didn't drink as much water. As soon as we could, we headed to an Italian resturant for supper (we needed something different). After eating lots of food and drinking a ton of water I started to feel slightly better. I was planning on a very early bed time, but our albergue lit a fire in their outdoor fireplace and had after dinner shots for us. Abe and I enjoyed one before finally tucking in for a terrible nights sleep. 

This morning we again we were the earliest risers, eager to get the days walk started. Our plan was to walk from Sarria to Portomarín (24 KM). 

The best part about today is that we hit the under 100 KM marker. It is an awesome feeling being that close to the end. Some people don't want the walk to end, but Abe and I are both exhausted and our bodies are kind of over walking. 

When it was time for second breakfast, everyone seemed to had the same idea as us, and we all flocked to the first bar we came upon. It was so crowded and loud that I wanted to scream. We sat our stuff down and went to order, and as soon as had we left the table a woman took off all of her wet rain gear and plopped it down on our table. I just about blew a fuse. These were the new Pilgrims we had heard about and they were here in our bar taking our space. We ate quickly and got out of there (before I started yelling at people). 

The next bar we came to had a more relaxing feel. We sat outside and enjoyed the calming spa music that was piped in over the speakers. They had the most beautiful cat at this bar. She liked me because I kept giving her pieces of my cake, I couldn't get enough of her!! I asked if she could be my early birthday present, but sadly Abe said she had to stay (haha).

Now we are in our albergue in Portomarín. We chose the one in town that seems to be undergoing some major construction. It would be so nice if not for the constant sound of drilling and hammering. Hopefully tonights sleep will make up for last nights lack of sleep (if the construction workers will leave).

4 more days of walking until we reach Santiago! 

Buen Camino! 

Where the F--- Did All Of These Pilgrims Come From?!

We knew this day was coming, I had been dreading it, and it seems to have arrived. The day when the 150 KM and under Pilgrims join the Camino is now upon us. People who don't have enough time to do the whole Camino, or are just focused on getting their Compostela often will only walk the last 100-150 KM to achieve the magical distance to get their certificate and BAM, sins begone! 

Last night in O'Cebreiro, we slept in a room of about 50 pilgrims, and over half of them were up and rustling in their bags by 5 (not fun, thanks for waking me up)...we then proceeded to go outside where a dense fog had formed overnight. It was like a thick down blanket of fog had been laid over the mountain, but this blanket wasn't full of warmth, it was full of icy cold fog and mist.  The walk today was from O'Cebreiro to Triacastela (about 20 KM) and it was mostly downhill.

We followed the long line of green, blue, red, orange, and yellow ponchos down the hill for pretty much the whole day. I found annoyances everywhere:

1. They formed lines that blocked the entire path from other Pilgrims going at a faster clip. 

2. They didn't understand how to order at the bar and blocked doors. 

3. They totally threw off my mojo. 

We saw many people sitting on the rocks that lined the path, huffing and puffing. I wanted to say "Don't worry, we have all been there" but at the same time I wanted to start throwing elbows to get them out of my way. The worst part is that tomorrow we get into Sarria and even more Pilgrims will join us there. I know I need to be kind and sweet, but I hate having to share my Camino with these "Pilgrim Cheaters". 

Although with the added Pilgrims threw off my concentration, I was still able to enjoy the beautiful views that Galicia has to offer. 

Before coming into Triacastela, we passed through a tiny little town that had about 3 homes in it. When we got there it was time to release the cows, so today, we participated in our own very slow running of the bulls (cows). 

We arrived in town and heard that there was a Pilgrim Celebration at the church later tonight. I convinced Abe to go and it ended up being a mass. It would have been fine if Abe hadnt been forced to read aloud during the ceremony. Also who knew Catholics got such a workout at church...up, down, kneel, up, hold hands, hug, ect...Ultimately we survived and didn't catch fire during the service. 

6 days of walking until Santiago!

Buen Camino!!